terly breeze, 12 km per hour, wind rising, heavy sea after mid- 
day, wind veering more and more to the North, in the evening 
HALF A GALE, heavy rolling of the long ship, Captain Soulsby falls and - 
breaks a rib, an English passenger badly hurts his face in similar 
circumstances, the marnsar. breaks loose from the lower block. 

7 July, impossible to set foot on deck, heavy rolling until, 
towards evening, the wind at last abates and we can go on deck, 
with the Holmen light-house in view. Sea subsides more and more, 
but choppy. 

8 July, 7 a.m. Vingan, then entrance to the Götaälv skerries, 
roches moutonnées everywhere, the effect of the ice visible at 
1,000 paces. Soon the river gets narrower, with green valleys 
between the granite rocks, then a few trees too, finally the 
approaches to Goteborg, lovely and strange because of the squat 
spaciousness of the broad houses. 

Goteborg proper, a modern city amid old-Swedish surround- 
ings; all stone inside, all wood outside. Dutch canals with Dutch 
stench in the streets. The Swedes look far more German than 
English; foreign Finnish element among them. By and large, the 
women’s complexions are poor; coarse, but not repulsive features; 
men more attractive, but also more reminiscent of the inland 
German philistine. People in their forties all look like Baden 
philistines. 

English is tolerated. German predominates. The commercial and 
literary dependence on Germany very apparent. Railway stations, 
public buildings, private houses, villas, everything in the German 
style, with minor variations for climatic reasons. Of England, only 

the parks and their tidiness, and a church in the English neo- 
Gothic style. One can speak German in every shop, even in 
hotel English speakers are requested to speak German if pos- 
sible. 

Pinks and hawthorn in full bloom, everything as on 8 May. 
_ Beautiful kinds of elms along with ashes predominate in the 
foliage. Green as an English spring. Interspersed everywhere with 
bare granite moutonnées. 

The way of life quite Continental, not English at all despite the 
drinking of false port and cherry brandy. The style of the 
hotels—rooms, breakfast, cuisine everything Continental. Similar- 
ly the mixing of classes in public houses. Aperitifs (Appetitsup) and 
Hors d’oeuvres (smorbr6dsborden) (25 Ore). 

People’s stature: medium height and stocky, 5’6” (Rhenish). 
Soldiers of horse artillery (varfvade) taller. Both officers and men 
rather militia-like, reminiscent of the Swiss. The Hull sailors look 
more like Holsteiners, Lower Saxons, Frisians, Angles and Danes 
than like Swedes. The Swedes here lack a manly expression of the 
face, mostly flabby bloated features, except for some seamen 
with Frisian physiognomy and sinewy build. The soldiers look like 
Westphalians, the officers too, NEITHER PRIVATE NOR OFFICIOUS. 

As always, one can’t help thinking how much is done 
everywhere on the Continent for the health and recreation of the 
populus as compared with aristocratic England. 

Comic effect produced by the 2 English sweet Lapies, stared at by 
all the Swedish women. 

Voyage to Stockholm. Lay-out of the steamer: back cabin for 
sleeping, front cabin for taking meals. Substantial fare. Salad with 
cream. Sweets. People further inland showing more character in 
their features, the men more handsome, stronger and taller, the 
WOMEN PLAIN BUT HOMELY AND NOT UNPLEASANT, also tall and sturdily built. 
Their character increasingly reminds one of Black Forest people, 
Swiss and Tyroleans (Steub’s Tyrolean Goths?). Country squires. 
The language too sounds very much like High German without 
gutturals. 

Country at Gotaalv lovely, but subdued, up to Trollhattan. Four 
waterfalls straight above one another. Mountains not over 600 to 
800 feet high, but impressive. Then Lake Vaner with Kinnekullen, 
flat and monotonous. VAttern likewise. Karlsborg’s fortifications not 
badly laid out, long lines, polygonal, but isn’t the mountain behind 
dominant now? The lakes beautiful but all alike. Endless forests of fir 

a The name of a hill.— Ed. 

Plan of the Swedish fortress of Karlsborg. 
Drawing by Engels 

Sweden and Denmark. Travel Notes 347 

trees, damaged at that. None of the stately heavy firs of Switzerland. 
SCOTCH FIR. 

Motalaalv valley again partly cultivated, beautiful in places 
where trees—elms and birches—line the canal. 

The skerry-dotted sea gets more and more beautiful towards 
Stockholm. Change in formation—limestone here and there and 
greater weathering, hence more gentle slopes and Alpine meadows 
rising direct from the sea. Marble quarries on two islands. The 
skerries become higher and more beautiful the closer one gets to 
Stockholm. Lovely scenery along Lake Malar; forests, fields and 
villas alternating. 

Stockholm’s Norrbro [North Bridge] reminiscent of the Pont des 
Bergues in Geneva. Mosebacken splendid. Fine view from 
observatory too. Steam sloops to the Djurgarden [zoo]. The latter 
most beautiful as a park. Many restaurants and cafés. French style 
with small tables a la carte, no table-d’hote. Stockholmers’ custom of 
eating in restaurants. Brannvinsbordet [snack with brandy] 
everywhere. Paiestko-6l [beer] better than in Germany. Exceeding- 
ly sweet drinks and food (karger). Swedish beer not worse, but 
either too sweet or too sour. Wines—Bordeaux hyper-hermitagé, 
petit bourgogne with an addition of South French wine—main 
drink at table. Otherwise, the standard cuisine more German than 
French. 

Stockholm has more the air of a capital city, foreign languages 
less coulant, but German spoken in every shop. Men’s fashions, 
decidedly English in Goteborg, predominantly French _ here. 
Hypocrisy concerning brannvinsbordet when ladies around; chil- 
dish entertainments: merry-go-rounds, puppet shows, tight-rope 
walkers and bad music. Boat parties still the best “mekanismen”’. 
And yet serious or hypocritical Lutheran character of the people, 
which tolerates no Tivoli-type public entertainments on a large 
scale. 

Soldiers, even Guards, stoventy in the militia manner, officers 
ditto. No tire in THEM. Not very tall either, no match to the men of 
the 69th. Eclectic uniform and old-fashioned leathers. Sentries 
chat. Beards. The Malm6 hussars—as heavy as troopers of the 
line—are the most handsome of the men. 

The trains—dear me. Three times ringing, once whistling. 
5 minutes=15 a 20. Simple but good buffets, everything costs 1 
riksdaler. Landscape picturesque, but after the first two hours 
monotonous and ultimately boring through perpetual repetition. 
The abundance of lakes readily explained by the effect of the ice. 
The valleys are mostly former seabed or peat moors. 

Smart trick this sending the people to Malm6 to bring a series of 
diplomatic negotiations to an end.” 

Copenhagen. Really more like a hovedstaden [capital] in size and 
life-style than Stockholm, but still small and modest. Decided 
preponderance of Germans, even on the streets. Cheerful 
children, all kinds of entertainments, above all for children. At 
least a hundred merry-go-rounds. The adults infantile too; ballet, 
circus, etc.; even the children’s cruelty, which takes the greatest 
satisfaction in tormenting children. Tivoli of the most characteris- 
tic kind. 

Lovely trees everywhere in Copenhagen. Impressive entrance to 
the port. Old warships—very picturesque. The atmosphere of a 
peasant capital city that exploits 1.5 million peasants unmistakable 
everywhere.